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Looking for Lila provides opportunities for the curious traveler to experience the raw and viceral atmosphere of Naples by quickly getting under the skin in under a day. Each tour has been curated with passion and care to bring to life the many aspects of Neapolitan culture past and present in an honest, enthusiastic and unique way. 



Sophia will show you everything that is not in the guidebook but give you a deep and thorough understanding of what makes the city so enthralling. Spend a morning in conversation with Sophia as she takes you around her beloved backstreets as she regales Neapolitan myths, mafia stories, art history, politics and anecdotes of daily life to give you an understanding of what it means to be Neapolitan. Expect to weave through alleyways laced with laundry, through inconspicuous doorways, meet locals and delve into artisan workshops.  

Each tour passes the best places to try street food, pastries, coffees and other impromptu treats in the city. At the end of each walk Sophia is happy to talk through the menu at a local lunch spot, explain the typical dishes, go over the morning, and provide answers to any lingering questions on Neapolitan life as well as give her personal tips and suggestions for the rest of your stay based on your interests. (Bespoke edits to this tour possible on request)

Private tour (max 5 people - 3.5 hours) w/coffee and pastries included - prices on request

Lunch is optional and not included in the price but my time is if you would like me to join you and give you additional tips for your stay.

Complementary list of Looking for Lila restaurant tips included

Concierge service included on whatsapp throughout your stay for restaurant bookings and advice




Spend a literary morning in conversation with Sophia weaving through the vivacious and characteristic off-the-beaten track market of Borgo Sant’Antonio to experience community life in it’s rawest form: delve into family run business like a the Enzo’s Baccaleria to try raw cod, Antonio’s Fressellaria, and Pasquale’s sign painting workshop, past basso apartments and cigarette contraband for sale. Then cross town to the far more isolated and desolate neighbourhood of Rione Luzzatti where the novels themselves take place. Here, between extracts read out aloud from My Brilliant Friend, Sophia leads her charges on a wander of the area through the parish gardens, past the church, the library and into the neighbourhood courtyards and via local establishments. She allows you to experience the area as a local, encouraging spontaneous encounters and conversations with residents to get you under the skin of the stories before finally leading you out of the neighbourhood through the infamous tunnel. The walk ends by jumping on the metro back into town where visitors can decide to independently get off at the upmarket Piazza Amedeo in Chiaia and walk down to Piazza dei Martiri to the area where the Solara’s had her shoe shop. (Bespoke edits to this tour possible on request)

Optional extra: Three-course lunch of local author and Ferrante expert and author Maurizio Pagano in the Ferrante neighbourhood to enjoy local delicacies, wine, pastries, limoncello etc €35pp

Private tour (max 5 people - 4 hrs) - w/taxi, coffee and pastries included - prices on request

Complementary list of Looking for Lila restaurant tips included

Concierge service included on whatsapp throughout your stay for restaurant bookings and advice


For bookings and more information please contact us by email or telephone.

N.B Sophia apologies in advance but is often working on any number of projects or out with clients alot so please feel free to telephone directly or chase her if you need an immediate response - she would love to hear from you.

WHATSAPP +393898463510



Looking For Lila provides 'location fixing' for documentaries, journalists and film makers. As well as production for photography shoots and events which can include location scouting and casting. (CNN/BBC/KEO PRODUCTIONS/MINI TITLE)

Looking for Lila will also help facilitate your whole stay with one-off recommendations or entire weekend itineraries to suit any age group or budget.

Looking for Lila offers:

  • Liscensed guides for Pompeii and Herculaneum

  • Production services: Location scout and casting

  • Recommendations for the best hotels, guest houses and apartments, eateries, and drinking holes

  • Reliable and fairly-priced taxis and transfers (Paestum, Pompeii, Herculaneum, Pozzuoli, Amalfi etc..).

  • Anything you want!

Email us with your travel dates and interests and we will be happy to put together a perfect trip. Starting from €250 for a weekend trip with restaurant bookings, unique and bespoke top tips, suggestions.

Articles on Naples by Sophia Seymour


Published by Culinary Backstreets on March 16, 2017


The Idler Magazine in the May Issue 2017

Pasolini's Great Neapolitan Village

While in many parts of Europe consumer capitalism has brought an invasion of chain supermarkets and restaurants, contributing to the extinction of independent family-run grocers, Naples and the small distinct districts of its old town have magically managed to resist.

The neighborhood markets retain a charm that is reminiscent of a by-gone era when Europe’s streets would smoke and hiss and the ground would be covered in cabbage crusts and fish entrails. The city’s cobbled and narrow streets revolve around civic life, which still brims with stalls selling fresh mollusks, sacks of nuts, knots of garlic and onions, rounds of cheese and hanging hams. Ragged trouser traders, howling hawkers and crooks cram into the alleyways where fruit and vegetable stands nestle alongside opportunistic vendors roasting a few foraged ch estnuts or artichoke hearts from smoking iron vessels...


Published by Culinary Backstreets on March 28, 2017

Naples' Beloved Montesanto Market

It’s Sunday morning at La Pignasecca market in Naples and time is in flux. Picture a Boccioni painting: movement is blurred, there is an inter-penetration of objects, speeding vehicles and sound – a frenetic moment in the Futurists’ imagination. The city rises as engines splutter, traders hustle, klaxons yelp.

Santa Maria di Montesanto spews punters out into the marketplace after mass; men peel off, heading home to check on the simmering ragù; groomed teenagers peacock on mopeds as groups of women push in line to pick up their last-minute order of fresh pasta, charcuterie and squid. The church bells chime: it’s lunchtime. Anticipation is in the air....


Published by Culinary Backstreets on August 9, 2017

A Clean Bill of Health: La Sanità's Resugence

La pizzaiola, played by Sophia Loren, peddles pizza from a counter on the doorstep of her street level apartment. She kneads dough while crying out for custom in a thick dialect and as clouds of flour fall to the cobbled Neapolitan street. The black and white shots fill the screen with classic southern beauty: Loren’s dark hair and features, soft and full like the rounds of dough in her hands; the deteriorating baroque palazzo; and a narrow street punctuated by stalls decorated with produce and wares.

This scene comes from one of the great cinematic homages to a city: Di Sica’s L’Oro di Napoli (“The Gold of Naples”), a 1954 a film that grapples with the bittersweet tastes of comedy, tragedy, hustling and the art of making do. There’s nowhere better to see Naples in all its “golden” glory than in the very neighborhood in which the film’s star, the inimitable Totó, grew up and where parts of the film are set: La Sanità...

Published by The Guardian on 7th November 2017

Elena Ferrante Photo Essay

Lenù and Lila, the fictional protagonists of Elena Ferrante’s Neapolitan novels, forge their friendship in a deprived area of Naples, just east of the cacophonous central station. The books follow the girls’ fraught relationship as they navigate the distinct social and economic divides of the city, both railing against and succumbing to the expectations of women as they struggle to be defined by something other than the violence and poverty of their post-war upbringing.

Ferrante maps out in vivid detail every corner of the unnamed “neighbourhood” where they grow up, yet when the characters move into the rest of the city she is meticulous in naming each street and square, allowing Naples to take centre stage as the stories develop. In this way, the success of the novels has seen an unprecedented number of readers from across the world make a pilgrimage to Naples, in search of the raw and gritty side of the city that has traditionally kept visitors away.......


Published by The Guardian on 2nd January 2018

Right to dunk: the children of African immigrants who fought the law to play basketball

“If wishes were horses, beggars would ride,” says Patrick Edomwaddoba, barely audible over the racket of the Tam Tam basketball team warming up for their fourth match of the season. The Pentecostal pastor watches proudly as the players take part in an exercise drill, neatly passing the ball between themselves in a tight lattice before raining a quick succession of shots towards the hoop. Originally from Nigeria, Edomwaddoba is on the sidelines to watch his two sons, Victor and King, compete against the league leaders in an eagerly anticipated encounter. But the outcome of the game seems of little importance when taking into account the struggles the team has been through in order to participate at all. If anyone understands the notion of having to work hard to be a part of something, it would be Edomwaddoba, who, together with the other parents of the team and the rest of the forgotten community of immigrants who live in the Caserta area of Campania, just north of Naples.

When a former Italian basketball champion, Massimo Antonelli, decided to start the team in the area, he had no idea that within a year they would inadvertently find themselves at the centre of a fierce political debate on what it means to be Italian. Until a month ago, the teenage players of the Tam Tam squad had been denied the right to compete against other teams in the regional league because their parents were immigrants and, as such, considered foreigners in the eyes of the law. In their endeavour to contest the decision to bar them a media storm erupted, disrupting practice and shining a light on Italian attitudes towards immigration and integration.

Published by The Guardian on 12th January 2018

Naples’ Fontanelle cemetery: skulls and silence beneath the busy city streets

Given the choice, most people would not enter a shadowy underground chamber stacked high with human skeletons. However, with an understanding of the Neapolitan fetish for skull iconography, a visit to Cimitero delle Fontanelle provides an unlikely calming and reflective antidote to Naples’ frenzied street life. The vast cemetery, dug deep into soft tufo stone, intersects with Neapolitan traditions of religion, folklore and pagan ritual – and is indicative of the many strata of the city’s history. The former quarry became a makeshift burial site in 1656 when a plague reduced the population from 400,000 to 150,000. According to tradition, being buried away from the consecrated soil of their parish church rendered the souls unable to reach heaven. Eternally dislocated from the afterlife, the chamber appears to embody the earthly manifestation of purgatory.

Published in The New Internationalist on January 8th 2018

Kids at work: a migrant in Italy

‘People are talking about me in Gambia,’ Musa Fata says, as he takes money on the door of a basement bar in Naples, where he is putting on his first club night.

It’s true: boys back home are eager to know what life is like in Europe. They tune in to the 24-year-old Afrobeat DJ and promoter’s regular Facebook Live soliloquies on music and fashion, where he shows off his box-fresh sneakers, pristinely ironed clothes and sharply cornrowed hair.

Musa arrived in Italy as part of the great wave of migration that Europe has experienced in recent years. He crossed the perilous desert into Libya where he washed car windows in Tripoli to raise 500 dinar ($360) to pay a smuggler to cross the Mediterranean. In August 2015, as his dinghy drifted off in the wrong direction, he was intercepted by the Italian coast guard and made landfall in Europe.